Old Tom Gin: The Adventure of the Black Cat

The Secret Beneath the Black Cat! Old Tom Gin, an alluring classic, returns with its unique charm! Amid the evolution of distillation technology and fluctuations in the cost of everyday goods, Old Tom Gin managed to carve its path between the dual dominance of Genever and Dry Gin, establishing itself as the "Old Tom Style."

As Taiwan’s cocktail scene matures, more bartenders are mastering the art of using various specialty spirits to create unique cocktail experiences. Gin, known for its vibrant fruitiness and light texture, is particularly versatile. Among gin varieties, Genever and Dry Gin are the most familiar, with Dry Gin being the predominant choice on bar shelves. However, historical records reveal that between these two types, there was a distinct category known as "Old Tom Gin." In simple terms, Old Tom Gin can be described as a long-lost relative of both Genever and Dry Gin. It has a lighter body compared to Genever and a distinct caramel and malt sweetness not found in Dry Gin. Three to four centuries ago, bars were well-stocked with this uniquely flavored Old Tom Gin.

At the time, gin production typically involved infusing juniper spirits with botanicals (commonly lemon, anise, and licorice). Higher-quality gins included caramel, compensating for the limitations of single distillation techniques and rudimentary filtering methods that left strong, harsh flavors in the spirit. By adding rich botanicals and sweet ingredients, distillers masked these imperfections. With sugar being an expensive commodity, the sweetened gin style became known as "Old Tom."

Two well-known historical Old Tom Gin brands are Hayman's Old Tom Gin and Ransom Old Tom Gin. Hayman’s classic Old Tom Gin is clear and pristine, while Ransom, launched in 2009, is made from malted barley and high-proof corn distillate, infused with juniper, coriander, citrus peel, lemon, angelica, and cardamom, and aged in oak barrels for a light amber color and slight tannin taste. The primary difference between the two is that Hayman’s includes sugar, while Ransom does not. This variation highlights the diversity within the Old Tom Gin category, similar to the range found in Dry Gins.

The Mysterious Black Cat

The origins of the term "Old Tom" are, as usual, surrounded by various tales. One legend tells of a black cat that fell into a gin vat at a distillery, giving the spirit a unique flavor. This distillery was run by gin maker Thomas Chamberlain, and his apprentice, Thomas Norris, later opened his own gin house, selling Chamberlain's gin and naming it "Old Tom" in a flattering nod to his mentor. This story is often considered a sycophantic gesture to please his old master. Nonetheless, the image of a black cat atop a barrel became symbolic of the sweet, rich taste of Old Tom Gin.

Another story dates back to 1736 when high-ranking military officer Dudley Bradstreet came into possession of a stock of Old Tom Gin. At that time, strict laws mandated licenses and designated sale locations to control gin quality. Bradstreet discovered a loophole in the law: if someone wanted to report illegal gin sales, they needed to know the name of the property owner; without it, the judge lacked authority to search the premises. To exploit this, Bradstreet rented a house, displayed a black cat sign in the window, and placed a slot in the cat's mouth with a pipe under its paw. Customers would deposit a coin in the slot, signaling Bradstreet, who would then dispense Old Tom Gin through the pipe. This ingenious method quickly became a model for underground gin sellers.

Old Tom Gin surged in popularity, even earning a mention by cocktail master Harry Johnson in his 1882 Bartender’s Manual as an essential bar staple. However, as continuous distillation technology improved, higher-quality gins like Dry Gin took over the market, leading Hayman to cease production in 1950. With the revival of vintage cocktail culture and improved accessibility to sweetening agents, Hayman reintroduced Old Tom Gin in 2007 with a 2-6% sugar content. From its origins as a solution to cover the harshness of lower-quality distillates with rich botanicals and expensive sugar, Old Tom Gin has reemerged, bearing historical and cultural significance—and of course, the legendary black cat.