Besides Tequila, You Shouldn’t Miss Mezcal

6 พฤศจิกายน 2015

Flavor is key to a high-quality Mezcal. When this spirit envelops the palate, flowing down with a smooth, silky texture, it brings forth an elegant fusion of subtle sensations. Each sip is rich with natural nuances and a slight smokiness, delivering a deeply memorable experience for both the mind and taste buds. This is Mezcal.

Mezcal once had a reputation for being harsh, even prickly—like drinking barbed wire. But experts today argue that a top-tier Mezcal can rival the finest whiskeys. The word “Mezcal” originates from the ancient Nahuatl language, meaning "a drink made from the agave plant." Mezcal is often crafted from agave sourced in Oaxaca, a Mexican state renowned for its Mezcal culture and production. The flavor is bold and full-bodied, with a unique, fresh smokiness. Various agave species and diverse production techniques lead to distinct flavors in each Mezcal brand. Typically, independent distilleries maintain traditional, artisanal methods to create high-quality Mezcal, which reflects the earthy, authentic taste. In Oaxaca, locals believe Mezcal possesses mystical powers and healing properties, as the saying goes: "For everything bad, Mezcal, and for everything good, too."

The Ingredients

Agave is the primary ingredient in Mezcal. By law, Mezcal must contain 80-100% agave, a succulent plant native to southwestern America with significant nutritional and medicinal properties. The most commonly used variety is Espadín, which takes around eight years to mature. Another rare, sought-after variety is Tobalá, which requires about 25 years to reach maturity. During Spanish colonial times, agave was revered as a sacred symbol in religious rituals. In Greek mythology, the agave plant was linked to the goddess of desire. The Mezcal itself, a strong, spiky spirit, is personified as Mayahuel, the Mexican goddess of fertility and nourishment.

There are around 9,000 small Mezcal producers across Mexico, many of whom produce small batches for local consumers. Approximately 200 agave species can be used for Mezcal, each contributing its unique flavor. Therefore, when selecting Mezcal, the agave variety is crucial rather than the distillery itself.

Harvesting and Cooking

Apart from the naturally cultivated ingredients, the allure of Mezcal lies in its rich and complex flavor profile, achieved through painstaking processes. Once the matured agave plant is harvested, the "piñas" are placed in a pit lined with stones, wood, and often oak or leguminous wood. The wood is burned to cook the piñas at a low temperature, creating Mezcal's characteristic smokiness. The choice of wood influences the flavor, as locals say: "Without the stone oven, Mezcal wouldn’t have its special smoky flavor nor the craftsmanship of handmade Mezcal." There is even a unique tradition: visitors throw a piña into the pit to ward off bad luck (though a piña can weigh as much as a case of tequila, so it’s no light toss!). Once roasted, the piñas are ground on a large stone wheel, typically operated by a horse or donkey, in a process known as tahona. The crushed piñas are then mixed with juices and placed in barrels for fermentation.

Fermentation and Distillation

Fermentation occurs in wooden barrels where natural yeasts from the environment interact with the crushed piña. Each barrel has its unique markings, believed to invoke the gods’ blessings for a successful batch. Workers determine when fermentation is complete by smell and taste alone.

During fermentation, around two-thirds of the liquid becomes the final product. The distillation process then separates the alcohol, following legal and traditional regulations that require two types of distillations: the heart and the tail. Quality is assessed using a “pearl test,” where the spirit is poured from a hollow reed; if it forms pearl-like bubbles, it indicates high quality. Unlike whiskey, which is stored in glass or other containers, Mezcal is stored in natural containers that preserve the raw aroma of the agave.

Aging

Aged Mezcal becomes smoother, a change most consider favorable. However, some believe high-quality Mezcal should be unaged, pure, and strong, at around 47% ABV, without any additives. Yet aging in oak barrels to enhance complexity is a growing trend, allowing consumers to select based on personal preferences. Different aging categories include:

Blanco (Silver): Aged less than two months, nearly colorless.
Reposado: Aged 2-12 months, with a light golden hue.
Añejo: Aged 1-3 years, golden in color.
Extra Añejo: Aged over three years, amber-gold in appearance.

Tequila and Mezcal: The Relationship

Tequila, Mezcal's famous cousin, is like bourbon to Scotch. Tequila is technically a type of Mezcal made exclusively with blue agave and only in certain Mexican regions. Due to these restrictions, Tequila’s flavor profile is narrower. As Tequila gained popularity in the 1970s and became Mexico’s national drink, demand surged, creating a market for low-quality and counterfeit versions. Mezcal, meanwhile, was overlooked, often sold in low-grade bars. But in 1995, Ron Cooper, the founder of Del Maguey, revived interest with a line of premium Mezcal, bringing Mexico’s rich Mezcal heritage back into focus. Now, Mezcal is trending in U.S. bars and restaurants due to its organic, small-batch production, unique flavor, and artisanal quality.

60 Seconds to Understand Mezcal

Many assume Tequila’s popularity led to Mezcal’s rise, but the reality is that most people first encountered Tequila as an affordable Mexican spirit. In the 90s, premium Tequilas made with 100% agave emerged, highlighting flavor differences and paving the way for Mezcal as the next step for Tequila enthusiasts. Mezcal and Tequila differ significantly in three main aspects:

Production Areas: Tequila is a Mezcal subtype limited to certain areas and made only with blue agave. Mezcal can be made in various regions using any of 30 types of agave, most commonly Espadín, particularly in Oaxaca.
Agave Varieties: Tequila is exclusively made from blue agave, while Mezcal can use up to 30 different agave types, each with its own characteristics.
Production Process: Mezcal’s unique flavor stems from artisanal techniques: piñas are slow-roasted in earthen pits with volcanic rocks and wood, creating the smoky flavor. Tequila, by contrast, is made with a modern, industrial process in stainless-steel ovens.

Future Development

As demand for Mezcal grows, challenges arise. Many small-scale producers lack the resources to meet the global demand for high-quality Mezcal. Meanwhile, large corporations are entering the market, sometimes producing low-quality Mezcal that may damage the brand's reputation. In contrast, smaller distilleries, deeply familiar with the land, respect natural cycles and balance. They have the flexibility to manage quality over quantity, but rapid expansion in Mezcal’s popularity poses risks to both tradition and authenticity.

If you’re interested in purchasing Mezcal or Tequila, keep two things in mind:

Aged Agave: Some Tequilas are made with blue agave juice and sugar but lack barrel aging, achieving color with caramel dye, leading to lower quality.
Mezcal with a Worm: The presence of the gusano (worm) is a gimmick for tourists, often indicating a lower-quality Mezcal.

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