Potong: Savoring a Century of Sino-Thai Soul in the Gaps of Time

Bangkok’s Chinatown (Yaowarat) possesses a unique magic, where neon lights and the cacophony of the crowd weave a tapestry of vibrant life. Yet, amidst this clamor, a narrow shophouse stands silently, its lintel bearing the characters "Potong" (普通 - meaning "Ordinary"). This was once the "Potong Dispensary," a traditional herbal medicine shop from a century ago. Today, it has been transformed into a sanctuary where Chef Pam (Pichaya Soontornyanakij) pays homage to her family’s history—Restaurant Potong.

This is not merely a Michelin-starred dinner; it is an immersive theater of memory, heritage, and the flow of the five senses.

The First Encounter: Medicinal Aromas and Time

Pushing open the heavy wooden doors, the ground floor seems to freeze time in the early 20th century. This is not your typical Fine Dining reception lobby, but rather a museum steeped in vintage sentiment. The mottled walls, the antique medicine grinders, and the old wooden cabinets all whisper stories of the family’s past.

The Welcome Drink is designed with ingenuity—it acts as both a greeting and a prologue. Using Kombucha as a base, it is infused with a subtle Chinese herbal aroma, echoing the building's history as a pharmacy. The garnish, flash-frozen with liquid nitrogen, is gently placed into the cup by the server. Amidst the swirling mist, the drink hits the throat with a cooling sensation, its sweet and sour notes carrying a herbal aftertaste that instantly awakens the palate and settles the mind, preparing you for this journey through time.

The dining flow is a journey of exploration. We are led to the rooftop terrace—once the area for drying herbs—which now overlooks the night view of Bangkok’s Old Town. The snacks served here carry a strong Chinese influence; they are exquisite and appetizing, perfectly harmonizing with the surrounding atmosphere. It is worth noting that the renowned Opium Bar upstairs has just secured the No. 43 spot on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025 and No. 92 on the World’s 50 Best Bars. If time permits, a creative post-dinner cocktail here would be the perfect highlight of the night.

Chapter 1: Awakening the Senses

The formal feast unfolds in the indoor dining room downstairs. Potong’s menu revolves around the "5 Elements," and the first course, the Black Chicken Shot, leaves a striking impression.

Served in a small cup, the broth is rich and comforting, carrying a strong Chinese character yet refined by French clarification techniques, making it elegant without being overpowering. It is paired with a Black Croissant—crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside—creating a stark visual contrast between the black pastry and the savory aroma. This dish is a powerful calling card, boldly declaring Chef Pam’s pride in her Thai-Chinese heritage.

The soup that follows draws its concept from Bangkok street food but is given an elevated interpretation. The broth is incredibly rich, tasting as if the essence of a whole bowl of ramen has been concentrated into a few spoonfuls—a layering of time and flavor. While the caviar garnish felt somewhat subtle, its delicate flavor slightly overshadowed by the robust broth, the dish successfully captures the vibrant soul of the streets.

Chapter 2: A Collision of History and Soul

Arriving at the "History" chapter, a Seared Scallop paired with Satay sauce and Thai Chili paste attempts to interpret the spectrum of Sino-Thai fusion. It is a bold experiment; the sweetness of the scallop clashes with the two intense sauces, creating a unique tension on the palate. While some diners might feel a slight "disconnect" in this fusion of flavors, the accompanying bread—airy and fluffy—ensures the dish remains a satisfying delight.

However, the soul of the evening belongs to the Deconstructed Pad Thai.

Chef Pam completely deconstructs this Thai national dish, presenting it in the red, white, and blue colors of the Thai flag—a stunning visual effect. The protagonist is a fresh, sweet prawn, handled with extreme meticulousness. Although it retains the visual integrity of the tail, it has been deshelled, allowing diners to consume the whole prawn elegantly. On the side, a Japanese-style Gunkan sushi brings a sour-sweet surprise, and the course concludes with a savory prawn head soup. The progression is seamless and worthy of applause.

Chapter 3: Forgotten and Recreated

One chapter of the menu is titled "Forgotten," aiming to utilize ingredients often discarded. A dish featuring fish skin showcases the chef's reflection on "Zero Waste." The fish skin is processed to be incredibly hard and crispy. This texture presents a challenge to the general palate; for those accustomed to light, airy crispness, this "sturdiness" might feel somewhat distant. Served with a Green Pea Foam that looks as light as a cloud, the flavor profile leans towards the clean and elegant. A touch more punch in the seasoning might have better balanced the intense texture of the skin.

Chapter 4: Interaction and the Bold Finale

Before the main course, the server presents a box of exquisite chopsticks for guests to choose from. This small Interaction cleverly bridges the distance between the diner and the food.

The main course, Duck Three Ways, enters under the theme of "Bold." The duck breast is cooked to perfection—a solid, steady performance expected of a Michelin standard. However, what truly amazed me was the supporting act: Sliced Cucumber demonstrating superb knife skills, hiding a savory braised meat filling underneath. The interplay of refreshing crunch and rich meat was full of detail. The final shot, infused with notes of soy sauce, offered a sweet-salty finish that brought an interesting conclusion to the main act.

Before dessert, servers offered a passion fruit palate cleanser resting on ice, instructing us to pick it up by hand. This return to a primal way of eating felt playfully charming in a fine dining setting, with the cold tartness instantly resetting the taste buds.

Epilogue: Spirit and Linger

The final dessert section, named "Spirit," is not merely a pile of sweets but a ritual. When the server brings out a wooden box for a "Lucky Draw," the atmosphere at the table shifts to one of lighthearted joy. It is not just a game of luck, but a final blessing from Potong to every guest.

Dining at Potong, you strongly feel Chef Pam’s desire to tell a story. There are no excessive molecular gimmicks here, only a deep, affectionate gaze at family memories.

While some fusion experiments may be subjective, and certain details leave room for polish, this is exactly what makes Potong fascinating—it is alive, it is trying, and it is conversing. From the pharmacy on the ground floor to the terrace on the roof, from the steadiness of the Black Chicken to the vibrancy of the Pad Thai, this is a love letter written to Bangkok’s Chinatown.

If you come to Bangkok looking for more than just a full meal, but a story worth remembering, then welcome to the Potong Dispensary.